A petticoat is the cheapest thing in the shop and the one that ruins the most expensive. This chart covers the measurements, the flare, and the three styles worth offering.
Why the Cheapest Garment Matters Most
Nobody sees a petticoat. What they see is the saree draped over it, and a saree can only hang as well as what is underneath.
A petticoat that is too wide at the waist rolls down under the weight of the saree. One that is too narrow at the hem makes the customer take short steps. One that is a centimetre too long shows below the saree in every photograph. A shop that gets petticoats right keeps saree customers, because the customer usually cannot explain why her saree sits better here than elsewhere — she only knows it does.
It is also the order most often taken carelessly, because it is a five-minute job on a two-hundred-rupee bill. That is exactly why it is worth having a chart.
The Measurements
A petticoat needs six figures. Take all six, even though the garment is simple, because the simple ones have no room to hide an error.
- Waist — around the natural waist, where the saree will be tucked
- Hip — at the fullest point, usually 20 to 22 cm below the waist
- Length — from the waist to the floor, measured with the footwear she will wear
- Hem circumference — the finished flare at the bottom
- Knee circumference — needed only for a fishtail or a mermaid cut
- Waistband width — how deep she wants the band, usually 2.5 to 4 cm
The length is the one to be careful about. Ask what footwear she will wear the saree with, and measure with it on if she has it. A petticoat measured barefoot and worn with four-inch heels is short, and a petticoat measured in heels and worn barefoot drags on the floor. If she does not know, measure to the ankle bone and tell her what you did.
Ease — Less Than You Think
A petticoat is worn under a tucked saree, so the waist carries real weight and cannot be loose.
- Waist — add nothing if it has a drawstring; add 2 cm if the band is stitched to a fixed size
- Hip — add 5 to 6 cm; this is where a tight petticoat pulls
- Length — subtract 1 cm from the floor measurement, so the hem clears the ground
Most customers prefer a drawstring even now, and it is the safer choice for a first order from a new customer. A fixed elastic band is more comfortable and looks better under a thin saree, but it has no tolerance — if the waist is wrong the garment is finished. Offer elastic to repeat customers whose measurements you already trust, which is a good reason to keep those measurements somewhere you can find them rather than in a notebook that fills up. A measurement record kept against the customer makes that decision easy.
The Flare, and How to Decide It
The hem circumference is the measurement customers never ask about and always notice. Too narrow and she cannot walk up a step. Too wide and the saree looks bulky at the bottom.
- Straight cut — hem about 110 to 120 cm. Cheapest, least cloth, restricts movement. Suitable for a heavy silk saree that will hold its own shape.
- A-line, standard — hem 150 to 170 cm. The default for most orders. Walks well, drapes well, uses about 2.3 m of cloth.
- Full flare or six-panel — hem 200 to 240 cm. For chiffon, georgette and net sarees that need volume underneath. Uses 3 m or more.
- Fishtail or mermaid — fitted to the knee, flared below. Hem 180 to 200 cm, knee taken snug plus 4 cm. For fitted modern drapes only.
The rule of thumb worth remembering: the lighter the saree, the more flare it needs. A heavy Kanjivaram falls perfectly over a straight petticoat. The same petticoat under a georgette saree makes the customer look wrapped in a pipe.
A Ready Reference by Size
For the order placed on behalf of someone who is not present. Not a substitute for measuring — a way to accept the order instead of turning it away.
- Small — waist 66 to 71 cm, hip 86 to 91, length 96 to 99, hem 150
- Medium — waist 71 to 79 cm, hip 91 to 99, length 99 to 102, hem 160
- Large — waist 79 to 89 cm, hip 99 to 109, length 102 to 104, hem 170
- Extra large — waist 89 to 102 cm, hip 109 to 119, length 104, hem 180
Always fit a drawstring on a standard-size petticoat, and note on the bill that it was made to a standard size rather than a measurement. It costs nothing to write and it prevents the complaint.
Four Things That Go Wrong
Measuring the waist where the trouser sits
A saree is tucked at or just below the natural waist, not at the hip. Take the waist where she says the saree will sit. If she is wearing a saree when she comes in, that answers it.
Forgetting the footwear
Already the commonest fault. Ask. If the petticoat is for a wedding and she does not yet have the sandals, add a centimetre rather than subtract one — a fraction long can be hemmed, a short petticoat cannot be lengthened.
A drawstring channel too narrow for the cord
Make the channel wide enough that the cord moves. A cord jammed in a tight channel is the most common reason a petticoat comes back within the week, and it is entirely avoidable.
Stitching the hem before the saree is chosen
If she is having the petticoat made for a specific saree and has not brought it, ask what kind of cloth the saree is. The answer changes the flare, and the flare changes the cutting.
Cloth and Pricing
Cotton for daily wear, cotton-satin or mulmul for comfort under silk, and a firmer satin for a fitted cut. Avoid anything with a rough weave — it catches on silk and it will be your fault.
Plan on 2.2 to 2.5 m for a standard A-line at 44-inch width, 3 m or more for a full flare, and about 2 m for a straight cut. It is a low-margin item, so where shops make money on it is by taking the petticoat order alongside the blouse rather than as a separate visit, and by not remaking it. If you charge separately for the drawstring, the elastic or a lining, put them as their own lines on the bill — the same principle as our note on setting a rate card.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should a petticoat be?
About a centimetre above the floor, measured with the footwear she will wear the saree with. Measured barefoot and worn with heels it comes out short; measured in heels and worn barefoot it drags.
How much flare does a petticoat need?
Between 150 and 170 cm at the hem for most orders. Go up to 200 cm or more for chiffon, georgette and net sarees, and down to 110 to 120 cm only for heavy silk that holds its own shape.
Drawstring or elastic?
Drawstring for a new customer or any standard size, because it tolerates a wrong waist. Elastic for a repeat customer whose measurements you trust — it is more comfortable and looks better under a thin saree, but it has no tolerance at all.
How much cloth does a petticoat take?
Roughly 2.2 to 2.5 m at 44-inch width for a standard A-line, about 2 m for a straight cut, and 3 m or more for a full flare or a six-panel.
Where Juvee Helps
The waist, hip, length, flare and drawstring-or-elastic choice saved against her name, so the second petticoat is a two-minute order. Take it alongside the blouse on one bill rather than as a separate visit — the blouse measurement chart covers the other half of that order. Juvee's Basic plan is free with no time limit; paid plans start at ₹10,190 a year including GST, listed on the pricing page.