A kurti is measured in eight places and cut in a dozen styles. Here is the chart, what the ready-made sizes mean, and where fittings go wrong.
Eight Measurements, Taken in This Order
Take them in this order and you will not have to ask the customer to stand up twice. Every one of them is taken over the clothes she will actually wear underneath, not over a thick kurta she came in wearing.
| Measurement | Where the tape goes | What goes wrong |
|---|
Shoulder | Across the back, shoulder point to shoulder point | Taken too wide, so the armhole seam drops off the shoulder |
Bust | Round the fullest part, tape level all the way round | Tape rides up at the back, so the bust reads small |
Waist | Round the natural waist, the narrowest point | Pulled tight. A kurti waist needs ease, it is not a blouse |
Hip | Round the fullest part of the hip | Skipped. This is what decides whether a straight kurti sits |
Kurti length | Shoulder point straight down to where it should end | Not agreed. Ask her to show with her hand, do not say inches |
Sleeve length | Shoulder point down to where the sleeve should end | Measured with the arm bent |
Armhole | Round the arm at the top, two fingers loose | Cut to the exact measurement, so it binds when she lifts her arm |
Neck depth | From the shoulder line down the front to the neckline | Agreed in words instead of shown. Always show it on her |
The two that come back are length and armhole. Agree the length by pointing, and always leave ease in the armhole.
What a "40 Size" Kurti Actually Means
Ready-made kurti sizes in India are bust sizes in inches. A 40 size kurti means a 40-inch bust, not a 40-inch waist and not a dress size. Customers often ask for a size when they mean a measurement, and the two are not the same thing.
| Size | Bust, in | Waist, in | Hip, in | Usual length, in |
|---|
XS / 34 | 34 | 28 | 37 | 38 - 40 |
S / 36 | 36 | 30 | 39 | 38 - 42 |
M / 38 | 38 | 32 | 41 | 40 - 44 |
L / 40 | 40 | 34 | 43 | 40 - 44 |
XL / 42 | 42 | 36 | 45 | 42 - 46 |
XXL / 44 | 44 | 38 | 47 | 42 - 46 |
This table is how ready-made kurtis are sized, so it is useful when a customer says "I take a 40". It is a starting point for a conversation, not a cutting size. Two women who both buy a 40 will not have the same shoulder or the same length, and those two are where a stitched kurti is judged.
The Style Changes the Measurement
The same eight measurements are used for every kurti, but which of them carries the fit changes with the cut.
- Straight kurti - the hip decides everything. Get it wrong and the side seams pull
- A-line - the waist matters less; the flare is agreed in inches at the hem, not guessed
- Anarkali - the yoke length becomes a separate measurement, taken from shoulder to under the bust
- Princess cut - the under-bust measurement is needed as well, or the panel seams sit wrong
- Side-slit - agree the slit height with her hand on her hip. This is a modesty decision, not a style one, and getting it wrong is the complaint you cannot undo
Ease: The Part No Chart Shows
A kurti cut to the exact body measurement will not be worn twice. Ease is what makes it a garment rather than a cast.
- Bust: add 2 to 3 inches for a comfortable everyday kurti
- Waist: add 2 inches, more if she asked for a loose fit
- Hip: add 3 to 4 inches on a straight cut, so she can sit down in it
- Armhole: always loose. This is the most common reason a kurti comes back
Ask one question before cutting: does she want it fitted or comfortable. The answer changes every number above, and it takes five seconds to ask.
Write the Length Down With the Footwear
A kurti length taken while she is barefoot at the counter, and worn with heels to a function, is a different garment. If it is for an occasion, ask what she will wear on her feet and note it beside the length.
The same applies to the bottom. A kurti worn over a churidar sits differently from one over palazzo, and she will judge the length against whichever she had in mind.
Keeping each customer measurements with the date and these notes is what measurement management is for.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the standard measurements for a kurti?
Eight: shoulder, bust, waist, hip, kurti length, sleeve length, armhole and neck depth. Ready-made sizing is based on bust alone, which is why a bought kurti fits at the chest and nowhere else.
What is a 40 size kurti?
A 40-inch bust. Indian kurti sizes are bust measurements in inches, so 40 is usually sold as L. It says nothing about her waist, hip or height, and none of those follow from it.
How do I convert measurements to a kurti size?
Take the bust and read it off the size table: 36 is S, 38 is M, 40 is L, 42 is XL. For a stitched kurti do not convert at all - cut to the measurements. The size is only useful for explaining the fit to a customer who thinks in sizes.
How much ease should a kurti have?
Around 2 to 3 inches at the bust, 2 at the waist and 3 to 4 at the hip for everyday wear, and a loose armhole always. Ask whether she wants it fitted or comfortable before you decide.
What length should a kurti be?
There is no standard, and that is why it must be agreed on the body. Ask her to show with her hand where it should end, then measure to that point from the shoulder. Note what she will wear underneath and on her feet.
For blouses, see the blouse measurement chart.
For salwar sets, see the salwar kameez guide.
For a ladies tailoring shop, see ladies tailor shop software.
On the phone at the counter, see the Juvee tailor app.
Try It on Ten Real Customers
Take these eight measurements properly for the next ten kurti orders, with the ease and the length note written beside them. By the tenth you will be quoting a delivery date with confidence, because you will already know what each style takes.
You can start free on the Basic plan - ten customers, twenty orders a month, no card.
Note: the size table above is how ready-made kurtis are sized in India and is a starting point for talking to a customer. It is not a cutting guide. Always measure the person in front of you before cutting.